![]() ![]() So it may well be worth trying to reset, but if it works, it will likely be for a different reason than why the reset worked on the GE switch. And that’s almost always a mechanical fault in the device itself, not a messaging issue like the GE switch can get. Internally, though, a plug-in module like the OP’s pocket socket which will operate the relay from the app but not provide power is more commonly either a burned out component or an overload protection kicking in. That’s the bug where using the airgap to completely reset the switch (or throwing power at the circuit breaker) may help. But they would no longer work from the app or an automation. Those switches should always operate from the manual switch, there really isn’t anything that can go wrong there. There’s a long-standing issue with GE switches where they will lose the ability to hear Z wave network commands (usually after the end of the warranty period). You can certainly try resetting it, but given that the relay does operate from the app it’s just the power’s not provided it’s unlikely that it’s the same issue. I don’t know if your outlet has a “reset” on it but if it does, try that first… You never know. I had her pull the air gap and push it back in and for whatever reason it started working again both via hardware and software. Then she said she tried with Alexa but it would just click but no lights. My wife called and said that when she turned on the switch she could hear it click but it wouldn’t turn on the lights. Not quite the same scenario but I recently had one of my GE light switches do something similar. So my guess would also be that the printer draw burned out the pocket socket. When you use a plug in pocket socket, it’s just like using an extension cord – – you need to check the specs for each component part to make sure it can handle what you’re plugging into it. In the US, most regular in wall receptacles are spec’d to 15 A. That particular pocket socket is only spec’d to 12 A. Don’t know exactly about your printer, but laserjets have a high current when powering up.ĭaniel makes a very good point. Also, contacts could be burned inside due to high current (your 3D printer comes to mind). Relays have a mechanical lifetime duration so after a number (high) of open/close spring inside weakens and functionality is affected. If not and you feel comfortable, open it and see if you can replace the relay yourself (involves buying relay, desolder and solder new one). If it’s still under warranty, replace it. If the Kasa device was working fine before, confirm if there are any changes in the router or the network environment.There’s a relay inside that clicks when when turning on. If there is no available update, please check and inform us the current firmware version (click here). Upgrade the Kasa device to the latest firmware (click here). In this case, please move the Kasa device closer to your router for a try. ![]() If the signal strength is less than -70dBm, it means the signal strength from the router is too weak. ![]() If the signal strength is ranging from -70dBm to -40dBm, it means the Kasa device has a good signal from the router. Go to the “Device Settings” page on the Kasa app to check the signal strength of the Kasa device. Check if any Wi-Fi settings (like channel, channel width, or wireless security type) or other advanced settings (like QoS, anti-virus software or firewall) on the router changed and updated Connect other devices such as laptop or smartphone to the host router’s Wi-Fi network to verify the Wi-Fi connection and internet service from the router is stable and working properly.ī. How to reset TP-Link Kasa smart switch and plug?Ĭonfirm the connection from the front-end router is stable with the following tips:Ī. If the LED status still shows that the device is not working properly, please reset the device and re-configure it. Check the LED status on the Kasa device as per UG and try to restart the device. ![]()
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